Problem-solving Roofs

PATCHING A FLAT ROOF

Small holes in a flat roof can be patched with a specially made primer and patching system. The technique will vary slightly according to manufacturer; that shown here is typical. This repair requires dry conditions.

TOOLS / MATERIALS needed:

Primer and patching system, brush, scissors, flat-roof roller

A. Dust off any loose material from the damaged area. Apply primer to the area, overlapping it onto the undamaged part of the roof.

B. Allow primer to dry if instructed to. Cut some self-adhesive patching material to cover the hole and overlap onto the sound roof.

C. Apply the patch to the primed area, and smooth it by hand. Then smooth it with a flat-roof roller, ensuring a good seal.

REPAIRING ASPHALT SHINGLES

Asphalt shingles typically last between 15 and 20 years if they are properly maintained. If you have a torn or broken shingle, rain can penetrate around the nails and cause damage to your home.

TOOLS / MATERIALS:

Asphalt shingle, prybar, hammer, roofing nails, roofing adhesive

A. Lift the damaged shingle from the roof.

B. Pull the nails out and completely remove the damaged shingle.

C. Use a pry bar to lift the tab above the damaged area.

D. Cut a shingle to length and slide it into position.

E. Using roofing nails to fasten the shingle.

F. Coat the head of each nail with adhesive and press the shingle in place.

FIXING OTHER SYSTEMS

• Laminated roofing shingles are thicker than standard asphalt and may require longer nails or staples to fasten them securely.

• Wood shake roofing can last about 30 years before it needs to be replaced, but it can become damaged through warping or shrinking and require a similar repair to asphalt.

REPAIRING A LEAKING GUTTER

Gutter joints, whether sealed with a rubber gasket or sealant, will deteriorate over time and leak. The repair shown here uses gutter or silicone caulk. For gutters without joints, cut out the damaged section and replace it with a piece that is at least 2 in (5 cm) longer.

TOOLS / MATERIALS:

Cloth, gutter or silicone caulk, caulk gun

A. Disassemble the gutter joint by unclipping the gutter length from the joint clip.

B. Remove the adjacent length of gutter to give you clear access to the internal profile of the joint clip.

C. Dust out the joint, making sure that it is clean and dry.

D. Apply gutter or silicone caulk around the edge of the gutter’s profile.

E. Reassemble the joint, fixing the clips securely back in place.

F. Wipe away any excess caulk with a cloth.

OTHER CAUSES OF LEAKS

• The gutter might be blocked and overflowing. Unblock it to fix the problem.

• Loose attachments may cause sagging and overflowing. Fix as for a downspout (below).

• A gutter needs a slope to drain efficiently. Check whether it needs adjusting to the correct angle

• Cast-iron gutters may rust. Paint often to avoid this.

FIXING A LOOSE DOWNSPOUT

If downspout brackets become loose, joints in the pipe may fracture and cause water to run down the building. This may cause water infiltration problems, so loose pipes should be reattached immediately.

TOOLS / MATERIALS:

Drill, suitable fasteners and wall plugs

A. Slide the loose downspout bracket to slightly above or below its previous position.

B. Hold the bracket in place, and mark where the new fasteners will need to go. Then drill pilot holes.

C. Attach the bracket with the appropriate fasteners. Use wall plugs on masonry.

REPOINTING A LEAKING VERGE

The drawback of a pointed verge is that the cement fillet sealing the edge of the tiles may become cracked. This leaves an opening for water penetration, but is easily fixed, as shown here.

TOOLS / MATERIALS:

Chisel, mallet, mortar mix, spot board, pointing trowel, small paintbrush

A. Rake out loose mortar carefully, using a chisel and mallet, taking care not to dislodge or damage any of the tiles.

B. Mix some mortar, and use a pointing trowel to press it into the joint below the tile.